Torres del Paine National Park
Torres del Paine, a hiker’s paradise, is a famous national park located outside of Puerto Natales, Chile within the Andes. Known for some of the world’s most scenic hikes, it is undeniably a must add to your bucket list. The views alone are worth the journey. Step outside your comfort zone and become one with nature. If you are physically capable, see Torres del Paine the right way by hiking and camping in the park. This is your ultimate guide to completing the W trek in 4 days safely and comfortably!
The Routes: O Circuit vs. W Trek
The national park contains two famous routes: the O circuit and the W trek. The O circuit is a circular track that allows you to hike the entire park (by trails, of course). However, this is a 10-day voyage that is physically demanding and strenuous. If time permits, this is an incredible experience, even for novice hikers. Completion of the W trek can be done in 4 days for those with time restrictions. We came across a few trekkers who successfully completed the O circuit with minimal hiking experience. Below is a map showing both route options.
For travelers like ourselves, our itinerary did not allow for a 10-day hike. The most popular route is to hike the W trek, a 4 to 5 day journey that allows you to see the highlights of the park in a timely fashion. Famous sites like The Towers, the French Valley, Glacier Grey can be viewed on this path. Careful planning is required before hiking this incredible location, but we are here to help with your planning process in order to complete the W trek in 4 days!
The W Trek in 4 Days
The W trek received it’s name very originally (lol) due to the route’s shape of a W. There are 6 major points of interest which you will encounter:
- Refugio Grey
- Refugio Paine Grande
- Campamento Italiano
- Frances Valley (French valley)
- Refugio Las Torres (the towers)
- Mirador Las Torres (the towers)
Once you enter the park, you can begin your journey from two different points: Refugio Paine Grande or Refugio Torre Central. Both of these locations are accessible from the park entrance. For a more detailed Torres del Paine review, check out our Patagonia post here. This review is based on our experience hiking the W trek in 4 days. Even though the full hike is typically 5 days, it is possible to do in less than that. Just make sure to see the major highlights of the park if possible. Enjoy and happy planning!
The W Trek Basics
- How to get there
- The cost
- Where to stay
- The hiking
- The viewpoints
- What to pack
- How to prepare
- Things we wish we know
How to get there
Torres del Paine is located on the outskirts of Puerto Natales, Chile. You will fly into either Puerto Natales directly or Punta Arenas (3 hrs away). Flights into Puerto Natales are infrequent, but if you can make it work with your timeline, it saves a lot of time. We recommend staying in Puerto Natales at least one night to relax before the trek. Surprisingly, hotels are very affordable in this small, port town.
The park itself is about a two-hour drive from Puerto Natales, but there are coach buses that take you to the park entrance. So, have your hotel receptionist call a cab to take you to Terminal Rodoviario bus station (remember cabs only accept Chilean Pesos in Chile).
There are two bus companies that go into the park: Buses Gomez and Buses Maria Jose. The buses depart at scheduled times, so plan ahead. See each bus timeline below.
Buses Maria Jose
Be sure to arrive at least 15 minutes before departure. If purchasing tickets at the station, give yourself plenty of time to buy tickets, because missing a ride to the park will significantly delay your trip. The bus will take you to the park entrance for check-in. Here, you will need to watch a informational video on the park and safety. From there, you will have your park entrance validated (if pre-purchased) or pay your entrance fees. Keep all of your tickets and receipts together!
Using a travel agency will make your life 1000 times easier when planning for this trek. Your agent will organize and provide all of your tickets and entrance fees that will be included in your total cost. This was such a nice luxury during our time in Patagonia, which eliminated a lot of potential stress. We highly recommend using Dittmar Adventures (booked via KimKim.com) if you decide to use an agency.
The bus will wait for all of the passengers to get checked into the park and watch the video. From there, the bus will head to either Terminal Pudeto (destination Paine Grande) or Terminal Laguna Amarga (destination Torre Central). Those departing from Pudeto will hop on the 30 min ferry to Paine Grande. If you’re beginning at Torre Central, you will check in to the refugio. Whichever location you decide to begin your trek, will be an important factor in purchasing tickets and booking accommodation.
The Cost
Below are costs that you can expect to pay including transportation, accommodation, and park fees. Bringing your own camping gear will save you some money in the long run, but keep in mind, you will be carrying these items for the majority of your trek. We would only suggest this for advanced campers. As a couple, we really appreciated the ease of having everything set up for us on arrival. Especially, after a long day of hiking, the last thing we wanted to do was set up a campsite and cook.
| Anticipated Fees | Expense (USD) |
| Round Trip Bus Ticket | $20 |
| Park Entrance Fees (Cash only) | $43 |
| Full board at refugios | $60 |
| Refugio (made bed) | $95-115 |
| Campsite (double occupancy) | $16-21 |
| Fully equipped campsite | $42-49 |
| Pudeto Catamaran (one way) | $35 |
Where to stay
As we suggested before, stay at least one night in Puerto Natales prior to your trek. We made this our base and spent 2 nights in town, 3 nights on the W trek, and 1 night back in town. Another options is to stay closer to the park. There are a few hotels within the park where you can begin your hike straight from your room. Others are within close proximity, but will offer a shuttle service to the park entrance. We stayed at Altiplanico Sur in Puerto Natales, but below are other options we researched or were recommended.
If it were in our budget, we would have stayed at EcoCamp Patagonia or Hotel Salto Chico, which provide an all-inclusive experience. The pro of staying in the park is that you get the full experience rather than short day trips on the W trek.
Puerto Natales
- The Singular Hotel Patagonia $$$
- Hotel Remota $$
- Altiplanico Sur $$
- Hotel Simple Patagonia $$
- Noi Indigo Patagonia $
Another option is to stay within the park at some of the luxury, all-inclusive resorts. These are expensive, but include your food/beverage, excursions into the park, and usually some fees. If it’s in your budget, the experience alone is worth it. However, for those who prefer the more adventurous route, staying in the park is more of a true hiking trip experience. We would love to go back when we’re older and see Patagonia that way!
Outskirts of the Park
- Awasi Patagonia $$$$
- Hotel Salto Chico Explora Patagonia $$$$
- Tierra Patagonia $$$
- EcoCamp Patagonia $$$
- Hotel Lago Grey $$
- Río Serrano $$
In order to stay at a refugio or camp in the park, you must have a reservation. Book your park accommodations far in advanced here. We advise booking 6 months out if possible. We waited until about 2 months prior and missed out on staying in some refugios aka you will be camping. Don’t make this mistake, especially when booking highly sought out sites like Los Cuernos.
The Refugios
Each “refugio” is where hikers can camp and spend the night. There is a hostel/lodge for those who do not want to sleep in a tent outside at each refugio. The only campsite without rooms is Campamento Italiano, which is basically every hiker for themself. There is no store, hostel, or rental gear available. The refugios are great because they have a cafeteria, some type of convenient store, and camping gear rentals. You have the option to rent camping gear, bring your own gear, or stay in the lodge. Some of the lodges are nicer than others, but keep in mind that each room has 2 twin bunk beds and accommodate 4 hikers. As a couple, we were not expecting to share a room, so be prepared. Los Cuernos has cabin options with two twin beds for a higher cost.
Below are our rankings of the refugios from best to worst.
Los Cuernos
By far the nicest refugio in the park. Unfortunately, we did not get to stay in the adorable cottages, but we met other hikers who raved about them. Each contained its own wood stove and had views of the park. There is a restaurant, dining room, & shop here.
Torre Central
Located at the base of the towers (Los Torres), this refugio has an awesome cafeteria and lounging area. They had the best food, a bar, & a large shop. The views of the park from the ceiling-high windows was really lovely as well. This was the only location we could get a WiFi connection, which was nice at the end of our voyage.
Refugio Grey
The most adorable cabin style refugio in the mountains. We loved the dining/bar area. There was a wood fire stove in the main room and upstairs by the bedrooms. The indoor & outdoor showers were nice and hot. We loved the outdoor seating where you could kick your feet up and enjoy a cold Chilean beer. The food was very mediocre and there is a small shop on site too.
Chileno
This refugio is on beautiful grounds in a valley on the way to Los Torres. The tents are elevated amongst the trees overlooking the river. The calming sounds of the river was our favorite quality. The dining area was small, but had delicious hot chocolate! There was also a bar for a halfway stop beer. A quaint lodge for those who want to break up the hike to the towers.
Paine Grande
The second most central point of the park. The refugio is on Lake Pehoé. The lodge itself is fairly old and run down looking, but it has a huge dining area and upstairs bar. This is a major stop for hikers, so expect it to be packed. There is a convenience store with gear, snacks, and coffee/alcohol. The outdoor showers were cold and this site gets windy due to its unprotected location. We had the most fun here at the bar with our hiking buddies. Don’t get kicked out like us 😉
The Hiking
Gregg and I are far from advanced hikers, but we made this trip happen! We even saw hikers who were over 65 in the park. Inspiring! Anyone in good physical shape can handle this trek. Whether you complete it in 4 or 5 days, it is worth the demand for the views. Each day, expect to hike 4 to 8 hours from your base (refugio/campsite) to your destination. Be sure to build in time for rest stops and enjoying the views (our favorite part). Below is the schedule that we used. This is ideal for those who will hike the W trek in 4 days. Typically, it takes 5 days to complete the entire hike.
Trip Summary
- Paine Grande -> Refugio Grey (11 km/6.8 mi): 4 hrs
- Lago Grey -> Paine Grande
- Paine Grande -> Frances Valley (19.2 km/12 mi): 7 hrs Round Trip, 30 min extra to Brittanica
- Paine Grande -> Torre Central: 30 min ferry + 30 min bus ride
- Torre Central -> Las Torres (18 km/11.2 miles): 8 hrs Round Trip
Once again, you can start at either Paine Grande or Torre Central. We enjoyed ending the trip with a bang. The long day of trekking to get to the famous towers (Las Torres) was worth it! Your legs and feet will hate you, but the burn and fatigue was one of the most rewarding moments you will experience. I think I actually teared up when we finally reached the towers. It was definitely an awe-inspiring view. Remember to encourage hikers around you who look fatigued when you head back down. We always appreciated those who motivated us and gave us hope that we were in the final stretch!
For more details on each day of hiking and the refugios, find our Patagonia post here.
The Viewpoints
Grey Glacier
Kayaking Grey Lake around the glacier is an absolute must! If you’re planning on ice trekking The Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina, then I wouldn’t do the same excursion here. Our tour was booked through Bigfoot Patagonia. It was about $80/person for a 2.5 hour tour. Tours depart at 9:00, 14:00, and 17:00 each day. They provided all of the gear for kayaking, even dry bags for your phone/camera! The tour itself was very interesting and sad to learn about the melting of the glacier. The guides made us feel safe and were always up for taking photos! They even brought us hot tea and chocolates to enjoy as we enjoy the view and listening to the cracks of the ice. We highly recommend this once in a lifetime excursion! Also, the meeting point is only a 5-10 minute walk from Refugio Grey, so it’s not out of the way.
Side note: Jump in the lake after your kayak tour. Just do it.
Frances (French) Valley
The French Valley is a jaw-dropping viewpoint that is not easy to reach. The first 3 hours of your journey are far from grueling, but the last hour will test your limits. Expect to climb steep rock piles and lots of steps before being rewarded with an incredible view. We promise the grind is worth it! Take breaks along the way as needed, enjoy lunch by the river, and maybe even jump in on the way back! If time permits, hike an extra 30 minutes to Británico for panoramic views of the valley. Sadly, we left too late in the morning and didn’t not have enough time to make that trip. Below is a picture of the gorgeous lookout.
Mirador Británico
Mirador Las Torres (The Torres)
Basically the typical Instagram photo that inspires you to see Patagonia in the first place. Welcome to Las Torres aka The Towers. This was by far our favorite hike and viewpoint (mirador) or the entire trip. If you’re hiking the W trek in 4 days or less, this is a must see.
There was something magical about this 4 hour journey. Each portion of the hike had an incredible, scenic region with all types of terrains. From the initial steep ascent (ugh) to the daring Windy Pass, you cannot see the W trek without completing this hike. The last hour of this climb is steep and intimidating. 30 minutes of steps will be followed by 30 minutes of boulders. You will feel as though your on top of the world. Just when you think the “trail” never ends, The Towers will appear in all of their glory. It will bring you tears! This is the most rewarding, beautiful hike of them all.
Difficulty
The difficulty level is intense, but worth the scenery. If you are dedicated and not completely exhausted by this time, try to make it to the mirador for sunrise. We did not want to sleep 4 hours and make that attempt, but I can imagine it’s a killer view and there’s less hikers around. We got there just in time for lunch. Hang out for an hour or so, enjoy some food, take a million pictures, and take in the scenery. We promise the descent is significantly easier than the ascent was. Stop at Refugio Chileno and enjoy some snacks and a beer along the river before rushing back to Torre Central. We truly enjoyed the trip back to base.
What to Pack
If you’re not an avid hiker, packing for these trips can be somewhat intimidating. You don’t want to overpack, but you will dread forgetting something important. Here is a list of items we packed for our 4 day trek. Keep in mind, most hotels will allow you to leave a suitcase in storage until you arrive back to your base. Make sure your suitcase locks safely!
Osprey 40 L Women’s Osprey 36 L Men’s Fleece Jacket Wind Breaker Down Jacket Hiking leggings Hiking Boots Headlamp Camera Tripod Trekking Poles Microfiber Towel – Med. Camera Wide Prime Lens Facial Bar Foot Mask Thermal Baselayers Day pack Shower Slides
Tips:
- Bring trekking poles before entering the park
- We didn’t think we needed them and ended up paying more for a crappy pair in the Paine Grande
- Avoid bringing plastic into the park
- Littering is a poor look in the park, even when using their trash cans
- Use eco-friendly products when possible
- Layers are your best friend
- Must pack: high-quality (fitted) backpack, lightweight windbreaker (waterproof), hiking boots, hiking socks, pain relievers, headlamp/flashlight, day pack bag, refillable water canister
- Pack a foot mask and save for your longest hike! We treated ourselves to this the night before our Las Torres trek. Our feet thanked us tremendously in between those two long hiking days
How to Prepare
Hiking the W trek in 4 days isn’t for the weak. It is always ideal to be in your best physical shape before going on a hiking trip. It’s not necessary, but the experience will be much more enjoyable if you’re not out of breath the entire time. We prepared by doing our usual weight training 3-5 times a week and incorporated more cardio. A couple times a week we would either go to a spin class (don’t shy away from resistance!) or hit the stair master. Focusing on cardio and strength training that build up your leg muscles is key. Mimic moves that you will encounter on the trail when weight lifting for maximum results.
A healthy diet before and during your trip will also be beneficial. Avoid consuming too much alcohol the night before a hike and get some rest, but make sure to enjoy your time with other hikers as well!
Things We Wish We Knew
- Book refugios early!
- Refugio rooms house 4 single beds. Expect to share a room.
- Los Cuernos have awesome private cabins
- Buy trekking poles. Your joints will thank you.
- Summer days were warmer than we expected. The nights get cool and windy.
- Brings shower flip flops, so you don’t have to wear your nasty boots to your room/tent
- Bring a thermos to enjoy hot mate and get the full Chilean experience
Hiking the W trek in 4 days is easily doable. We saw the best of the park in a short period of time. Props to the brave souls who take on the 10 day O circuit! You do not need to complete his to experience Torres del Paine. Save your precious time, complete the W trek, and then see the best of Patagonia (Mount Fitz Roy, Perito Moreno, etc.). Our time in Torres del Paine was one for the books! We met some amazing hikers along the way from all over the world. This trip can be successfully completed by anyone in decent physical shape. Patagonia is not easy to get to, but is worth all of the travel. Experience some of the best hiking in the world on the W trek in Torres del Paine!
